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I deleted the counter chain in my Mitsubishi Triton and wanted to explain the process for a while now. Then I came across the actual instructions for it in my vast library of information. I did the delete as part of a full engine rebuild so the photos were taken during the rebuild process. All the normal rotating parts in the engine should be re-balanced. I learnt the hard way after reading Facebook comments that stated it was not necessary. So here I am 40K later rebuilding the engine again because the big-end bearings failed due to unbalance. It was barely noticeable on the first rebuild so I thought the comments were correct, Now I know. So if you want to go down this avenue to delete the chain, wait until your ready for a re-build.
Click here for the instructions in pdf format.
PLEASE NOTE: The instructions cover the installation fairly well so there is no need to go into fine details with the following photos but there is one difference. I use the bottom guide rail because it fits and takes up most of the slack in the oil pump chain.
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Just a look at the set-up before disassembly. The chain is a single row that stretches very quickly and requires adjusting virtually on every tune-up. The problem is, as I have found is that the tensioner is over tightened which accelerates the chain wear as well as wearing out the three guide rails prematurely. I encountered the over tightening during a few of my tune-ups over the years because I take the adjuster cover off just to check if an adjustment is required and when I loosen the nut the tensioner springs back, indicating it was too tight. If you are checking your adjustment, just loosen the adjuster, turn the engine in normal direction for a few degrees. This will tighten the chain onto the right hand guide rail. Then with some force push on the adjuster tang and release. This will tighten the chain on the bottom and left rail. Then with just light pressure again push the adjuster tang until it lightly contacts the chain and lock it up. This will give you the best result without putting excess pressure on the chain and guid rails.
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On re-assembly this bush need to be fitted into the upper balance shaft hole. This stops oil flow to the open hole from the oil gallery once the shaft is removed.
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A new oil pump is fitted or you may use the old one if in good condition. The balance shaft is removed and a dummy plug is fitted. Ensure you follow the installation instructions carefully to avoild the plug from falling out. Fit the pump and timing chain and rest the camshaft sprocket on the bracket.
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Now fit the large sprocket with the chain and install the small sprocket on the oil pump. I use the bottom guide rail. The instructions say not to but the chain is very loose if it is not fitted. Install the guide in this order - install the left bolt loosely, then lift the rail up until you can easily fit the second bolt in and start the thread. If you have to force the rail up to get the second bolt to align, then don't fit it because you will over tighten the chain and also wear out the rail in quick time, just like the original set-up wears out the rails if over tensioned.
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The installation is complete and you are now ready to fit the timing cover.
You will notice I do not have the original camshaft sprocket. This is another conversion I did that allows me to adjust my camshaft timing. Currenting I have the camshaft advanced 4 deg to give me better low down torque. If I need to go for a long highway trip then I would retard the camshaft 4 deg.
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